Coonabarabran NSW 2357

This post is a collection of some of my thoughts and experiences living in Coonabarabran during my recent rural placement (and is by no means comprehensive or authoritative). Photos of Coonabarabran and the Warrumbungles are available on my Flickr photostream.

People/lifestyle

Coona is a small country town with a population of 2,601 (2006 census). The town is classified RRMA 5 (“other rural area”) and ARIA+ 4.51 (“outer regional”) in the two major indices of rurality/remoteness used in Australia. That said, I love the country lifestyle in Coona! After living in Sydney for over 20 years, you really appreciate the friendly down-to-earth people, fresh air, wide open spaces and relaxed pace.

Kangaroo sign
Kangaroo hazard sign on John Renshaw Parkway, Coonabarabran

In my travels around Australia I’ve noticed some regional variations in vocabulary/grammar, which is perhaps unsurprising in a country this size. In Coona, I noticed that most people substituted “in the” with “of the”. For example, a patient might come in stating that his cough “is worse of the morning” or that he takes “one tablet of the morning and one tablet of the night” of a particular medication.

Warrumbungle National Park

The nearby Warrumbungle Mountain Range, located within the heritage-listed Warrumbungle National Park, is perhaps the most important tourism drawcard for Coona these days. The volcanic rock formations and rugged landscape of the Warrumbungles are the result of millions of years of erosion of an ancient shield volcano. The national park is a great place for bushwalking, with a variety of tracks of various grades, and I plan to go back to try one of the more challenging trails next time. The easiest way to see the Warrumbungles, however, is either White Gum Lookout or from the deck outside the Anglo-Australian Telescope at Siding Spring Observatory.

White Gum Lookout, Warrumbungle National Park
White Gum Lookout, Warrumbungle National Park

Burbie Canyon, Warrumbungle National Park
Burbie Canyon trail, Warrumbungle National Park

Around town

Coona township was founded in 1860, but the greatest development of the town occurred during the economic booms of the early 20th century, as reflected in the Federation and Art Deco architectural styles that predominate on the high street (John Street).

Memorial Clock Tower and Imperial Hotel, Coonabarabran
Memorial Clock Tower (1926) and Imperial Hotel (1930s)

Coonabarabran Courthouse
Coonabarabran Courthouse (1878)

Commonwealth Bank, Coonabarabran
Commonwealth Bank, Coonabarabran (1935)

There was formerly a railway service operating to Coona on the Gwabegar Line (a branch of the Main Western Line). The Gwabegar Line reached Coonabarabran in 1917 and became an important mode of goods transport. Regular rail services ceased in 1990 and the Gwabegar Line north of Binnaway (including Coona) was closed in 2005.

Gwabegar Line (abandoned), Coonabarabran
Gwabegar Line (abandoned), Coonabarabran

Surprisingly, there are two Chinese restaurants on John Street – Golden Sea Dragon Chinese Restaurant (金海龍酒家) and Golden Fountain Chinese Restaurant (金源酒家). Golden Sea Dragon has a very kitsch interior design, but is apparently more popular with the locals and seems to be a bit cheaper. Neither of them serves particularly authentic Chinese fare, but nor would you expect them to out this way. (And yes, you have to ask for chopsticks at both restaurants).

There are two main pubs (Imperial Hotel and Royal Hotel) in town, with the Imperial generally considered to be the better of the two. Both were described to me as “real” Aussie pubs, so it was perhaps unsurprising that the three of us medical students stuck out like sore thumbs when we walked into the Imperial one night!

Imperial Hotel, Coonabarabran
Public bar – Imperial Hotel, Coonabarabran

Royal Hotel, Coonabarabran
Royal Hotel, Coonabarabran (1912)

There are three cafés on John Street, although only one of them actually calls itself a “café”. My pick of the three was Raquel’s Café (good foccacias), though apparently The Jolly Cauli is also quite good when the owners are around.

Cornucopia motif, The Jolly Cauli
Cornucopia motif – The Jolly Cauli café (ex-Union Bank, c. 1920s)

More photos of Coonabarabran and the Warrumbungles are available on my Flickr photostream.

A distant sadness

In addition to All Along the Watchtower and Battlestar Sonatica, another one of my favourite tracks from the Battlestar Galactica: Season Three soundtrack is the haunting piece A Distant Sadness, as heard at the start of Occupation. The lyrics are in Armenian and have multiple levels of meaning, according to composer Bear McCreary – I’ll have to take his word on that. The CD booklet only provides the lyrics in Armenian script with an English translation, so I thought I’d try my hand at romanising the lyrics according to ISO 9985.

A Distant Sadness
Music & lyrics: Bear McCreary
Vocals: Raya Yarbrough

Հեռու եւ ծանօթ տխրություն մը մեզ կը կանչէ
Heṙow ew çanòt’ txrowt’yown më mez kë kančē

Քամիով բերուած՝ այրուող աւազի նման
K’amiov berowaç, ayrowoġ awazi nman

Եղբայրներ եւ Քոյրեր՝ որ հեռւում էք՝ դուք կը տոկաք
Eġbayrnr ew Koyrer, or heṙwowm ēk’ dowk kë tokak

Անելանելի վիծակի մէջ՝ մեր իսկ հողին վրայ։
Anelaneli viçaki mēǰ, mer isk hoġin vray.

Յիշողութիւն մը փորագրուած հոգու եւ մորթի մէջ
Yišoġowt’in më p’oragrowaç hogow ew mort’i mēǰ

Կը թողնէ սպի մը որ երբեք չի բուժուիր
Kë t’oġnē spi më or erbek’ či bowžowir

Մեր ընտանիքը ամուր է՝ բայց ցիրուցան
Mer ëntanik’ë amowr ē, bayc’ c’irowc’an

Աստղերու եւ դաշտերու տարածութեան մէջ։
Astġerow ew dašterow taraçowt’ean mēǰ.

Մենք ձեզ չի պիտի լքենք
Menk’ jez či piti lk’enk’

Մենք ձեզ չի պիտի մոռնանք
Menk’ jez či piti moṙnank’

Մենք ձեզ համար պիտի վերադառնանք։
Menk’ jez hamar piti veradaṙnank’.

(Note: I’ve probably wrongly transcribed and/or transliterated a few characters, given my unfamiliarity with Armenian, but my romanisation does seem consistent with Raya Yarbrough’s vocals).